How do the women traditionally make Barak?


There are several steps to making the fabric. First, of course, the sheep need to be sheared. Then the raw wool is sorted by color, washed, dried, and “carded,” that is, combed and straightened so it can be spun into yarn. [Steps 1 and 2]

Spinning is traditionally done using a drop spindle. [Step 3]

The yarn is stretched between two beams approximately 5-7 meters apart on a ground loom. [Step 4]

Ground looms have been used in the region for thousands of years. Vertical threads form the “warp” of the fabric. Weaving involves crossing yarn over and under the warp threads with a shuttle. This is the “weft.”

After the weaving is complete the fabric is “fulled:” a soap solution in boiling water is poured over it and it is beaten and agitated to shrink it and make it softer. This last step is heavy work and the women’s husbands, fathers, and brothers often help out. [Step 5]


 
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Step 1: The sheep need to be sheared. Then the raw wool is sorted by color.

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Step 3: Traditionally spinning is done using a drop spindle.

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Step 5: After the weaving is complete the fabric is “fulled:” a soap solution in boiling water is poured over it and it is beaten and agitated to shrink it and make it softer. This last step is heavy work and the women’s husbands, fathers, and brothers often help out.

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Step 2: Next the wool is washed, dried, and “carded,” that is, combed and straightened so it can be spun into yarn.

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STEP 4: The yarn is stretched between two beams approximately 5-7 meters apart on a ground loom. Ground looms have been used in the region for thousands of years. 

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Step 6: The Barak fabric is then cut into meters and tailored into all kinds of items from vests and coats to shoes and hats.

 
 

Why is a counterbalance loom better than a traditional ground loom?

 

 
 

Traditional Ground Loom

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  • Takes 3 women 3 days to weave a single meter of barak fabric
  • Can not be used in the cold winter weather
  • Women must work in a crouched position
  • Tiring, Uncomfortable, and Low-Efficiency

Counterbalance Loom

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  • A individual weaver can produced 1-1.5 meters of barak fabric in a single day. 
  • Operational year round
  • Women are able to sit on a bench
  • Efficient, Comfortable, and Professional
 

 
The counterbalance loom is 12 times more efficient than the traditional ground weaving method.
— Phil Smith, RPCV Afghanistan & Textile Expert